Art supply time!
Aug. 11th, 2011 12:45 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
This is a question I get asked a lot in deviant art and also something that I promised anon_decepticon talk about. Inking pens and mediums for highlights.
Before I go ahead I'm gonna spam you all with some of the birthday swag. Not pictured a few TF figures that I'll show off proper later, more jelly bellies and awesome phone holsters and botcon loots. Thanks to all the wonderful people that spoiled me for my birthday! And those are totally PJ cookies.


Truthfully I had never been very serious about using very good tools and supplies until our comics club in high school introduced me to technical pens, but ultimately I always ended up reverting back to felt pens and markers since I mostly colored with pencils.
mmouse15 introduced me to better art supplies and since then I've been testing different kinds for different uses.
Although I list most of the supplies I use for my traditional drawings per piece, I'm often asked 'is this better than this?' or 'should I invest on this brand or kind instead of that other?'. So, again I'm just going to share what it is my personal experience in the use of different brands and how they have worked for me for different mediums as well as my preferences.
I have a little chart here of the pens I have for inking purposes. I'll give a better description of each and their pros and cons below the photo. The image is large so you can notice the way the ink behaves and the thickness of the sizes I posses. I have worked with 4 brands so far. Prismacolor, Faber-Castell, Sakura Pigma Micron and now Copic.

Here is a comparative of the sizes I have available and how they compare with similar sizes between brands.

This is an experiment using alcohol markers to test whether the ink smudges or not. The black U marks where I used a very very light marker on the writing done with the inking pens of each brand. The black circles shows you where an N0 marker smudged the ink of a pen. I used the thicker size of each brand that I had.
Now by brand:
- Prismacolor's inking pens go as Premier illustration markers they are the cheapest inking pens out of the lot I have. They come in 8 colors (black, blue, brown, green, orange, purple, red and sepia) with black, blue, red and green available in sizes 08, 05, 03, 01, 005, plus chisel and brush tip. While brown, sepia, purple and orange are available in 05, 005, brush and chisel tip. I have the blue and brown pens in brush tip, 05 for green and 08 for black. These were some swag from comic-con that was sent to me.
Prismacolor's illustration markers have the lightest ink out of the pens I have even the colored ink is not as deep and vibrant as other brands. In this sketch paper (Strathmore 400 series sketch pad) you can notice the black pen feathers quite a bit more than the other brands which is perhaps a result of the bigger size . Dick Blick's website prices the regular sizes at $1.72 USD at the time of writing, and $1.43 for the brush and chisel tips.
Pros: Very afforable, work well with dry media and alcohol markers and their brush tip emulates the feel of inking with a brush quite nicely.
Cons: the ink is too light compared to other brands, specially noticeable on their black ink and it also feathers a more than I'd like it to.
Faber-Castell Pitt artist pens were my first inking pens that mouse sent to me. These are pens that have a very thick and very black ink, specially noticeable on the brush tip. They come in 9 sizes: extra fine, super fine, fine, medium, brush, big brush, and three new nibs extra soft brush, round-point needle, and wedge. The first 5 sizes are available in black in sets and sold individually, but the newest three are only available in an 8 piece set. The sanguine and sepia colors are available in the first four sizes in sets and open stock.
The brush tip comes in 55 colors additional to the inking sets. At the time of this writing Blick's website offers each marker at $1.57 USD each.
PITT pens are the only pens that come in sanguine, a nice rusty orange shade to ink with that's brighter than sepia but more muted and darker than Prismacolor's orange.
Pros: Nice rich and dark black ink, quite affordable and better performance than the technical tip sizes of the Prismacolor. These are a dream to use for dry media like color pencils and pastels, and black and white works. Sanguine color is wonderful to work with. Minimal feathering.
Cons: The standard brush tip is horrid as it frays very easily and is not very flexible at all. The black ink is so thick that will smudge very easily with certain pale shades of alcohol markers. Most artists prefer to color over their pencils and do the ink work until after they have colored with the markers to avoid smudging when the piece cannot be scanned and printed over. (Like artist's convention sketches or small size pictures).
Sakura Pigma Micron pens. These are more pricey than Faber Castell and Prismacolor, but as far as disposable technical pens they are some of the best there is. They come in 16 different colors and 8 sizes: 08, 05, 03, 02, 01, 005, chisel and flexible brush. Different colors are available in different sizes, their black ink is just a little lighter than the Pitt pens, but much richer than the Prismacolor illustration markers. Blick's webside offers these pens at $2.05 each.
Pros: Great variety of colors and sizes, inks are darker than Prismacolor and not much lighter than Faber-Castell. Decently priced for all the available sizes. Specially good to use with markers, dry and other wet media and in small drawing areas. Feathering is virtually non existent.
Cons: The color to size availability ratio is not as good as it could be. Some colors are available only in one size. Albeit to a lesser degree, some markers will cause smudging from the pens. Again, some artists solve this by inking after coloring.
Copic Multiliners. I only got these recently thanks to
anon_decepticon. This segment is about the disposable multiliners. These are the most expensive in the disposable range, they come in 6 colors and 9 brush sizes: 1.0, 0.8, 0.5, 0.3, 0.1, 0.05, 0.03, Small brush and medium brush. I didn't realize it until it was late but I called big brush to the medium brush in the photo. Sizes 0.5 to 0.05 are available in the colors wine, cobalt, olive, sepia, cool gray and black, while the other sizes are available only in black.
Copic is the only brand I know of that has the 1.0 and 0.03 sizes, which is one size thicker and thinner than other brands; and the only brand that makes gray and wine inking pens. The black ink of the multiliners is quite on pair with the PITT pens in darkness and thickness. Blick's site only sells the black sets, but iCopic offers the individual markers in all available colors at $2.21 each.
Pros: Rich, saturated inks as dark as PITT pens, a size thicker than other brands for larger pieces, and a size thinner for tiny pieces. Absolutely no feathering even with the thickest size for rather crisp lines, does not smudge at all when used with markers even the brush strokes. Cool gray and wine colors.
Cons: They are pricier than most other brands but still within the affordable range. The brush tips are not very flexible. Limited range of colors compared to other brands.
Copic Multiliners SP. I don't have the black version of these, but I do have the country colors set which is the colors the disposable multiliners come in sans olive. The Multiliner SP line is the most expensive each pen retailing at $6.71 on Blick's website. What makes these markers expensive is that they are refillable and have an aluminum body that makes the pens as light weight as their plastic disposable counterparts. Nibs are replaceable and ink cartridges are cheaper than individual disposable multiliners and sakura micron pens. Like copic markers they are meant to last you a life time just replacing nibs and refilling ink.
Multiliners SP come in 13 colors. The color SP multiliners come in two sizes, brush and 0.3 while the black multiliners come in 10 sizes. 0.03, 0.05, 0.1, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.5, 0.7 and brush. The brush tip of the SP is much thinner and flexible which allows for a pretty good control of the stroke's thickness and doesn't fray like the PITT pens.
Pros: Rich and saturated inks, no feathering and smudging when working with markers. Thinnest size available and a range of mid-point sizes when 0.3 is too thick and 0.2 just too thin. Aluminum bodies that are durable and quite fresh to the touch. Replaceable nibs and ink cartridges. For what they do they are a much nicer alternative to professional technical pens.
Cons: Expensive initial investment. The SP color pens only come in two sizes. Although the country colors have thinner or thicker sizes available as disposable multiliners, the other colors do not.

This is a comparative of the brush tips of 3 brands. First two are Copic multiliners medium and small brush, next is Prismacolor, next to that is the regular brush tip for PITT pens. You can notice that despite very gentle use (I don't use it to ink but to fill large solid black areas) the tip is already showing some fraying.
Personally I admit to loving my copic multiliners due to multiple sizes which are perfect to work on small areas or details when working with markers. So I'm only using the multiliners for marker or mixed media works. Mainly for my more polished works.
The PITT pens I'm keeping for large ink works that I intend to keep black and white or for colored pencils. Same with the Prismacolors.
I use the Sakura Micron pens for marker pieces still usually those that won't require lighter colors that could smudge and sketchier pieces.
There are of course more inking tools such as professional technical pens, dip pens and paint brushes all of which work with whatever kind of ink you wish to play around with.
And now for a variety of mediums to use to produce highlights on a marker (or pencil) piece. These are the things I use, each one produces different effects and results.

I have white opaque paint markers, gel pens, white wax marker, a white prismacolor pencil, crafts acrylic paint, dip pens and white ink. There is also copic opaque white for similar purposes but I don't have that one. Some people use liquid or pen white corrector.

I laid down a layer of black Copic marker on the sketch pad and then proceeded to write with each tool so you can see the different texture, effect and opacity of the different white inks. I use each one to achieve different effects and intensities:
Wax Crayon: I believe it goes as china marker too, it's just a regular peel off crayon like those used by teachers to grade your exams. It can be sharpened to a relatively thin tip for better control and it's color saturation is higher than what a color pencil can offer. However, because it's so waxy it'll pick up a lot more of the paper's texture and is not as good to produce smoother gradients. It works nicely on markers, inks and color pencils.
Prismacolor white pencil: I use a scholar version, but the Verithin and premier varieties produce a similar effect with varying degrees of whiteness and a great control. This offers the most control to provide subtle highlights and gradients and I usually use it when I want a subtle highlight without the unforgiving in-your-face whiteness of ink, paint or gel pens. Works with dry and wet media.
Sakura Gelly Roll opaque white gel pen: Out of all the white gel pens I've tried, Sakura's has the whitest, brightest ink. It lays down a nice white coat and usually doesn't pick up pigment from the colors beneath unless you are using water based markers. The only downside of this pen is how thick the point can be when you want a thinner line. Works well with wet and dry media.
Uniball Signo opaque white pen: Also known as Uniball Angelic because this line produces mostly pastel shades. It's got the thinnest tip you can find in the white gel pen market which makes it my favorite when I want thinner highlights than what I can do with the Sakura pen. There is a 'broad' version of this pen that has thicker lines than even the Gelly Roll and is as white. The Signo might pick up some pigment from the color below even with alcohol markers, which can be rather useful when you want a crisp highlight that's not really white. This usually happens only with darker or more saturated colors however.
Elmer's Painters paint marker: The version I have at hand has a broad calligraphy/chisel tip which is pretty versatile when you've practiced enough to know where to use each angle of the tip. Paint markers are permanent on porous surfaces like paper but tend to be washable on non-porous surfaces. Paint markers can be very white but also tend to fade a little after the initial application so the color. It's still very bright, though and easier to apply than paint itself. I tend to use this marker only when I need big white and crisp highlights. It tends to be a little bit yellowed when dry. Works well with color pencils and markers, but might want to keep away from pastels.
American Crafts Galaxy marker: It's another kind of paint marker. It doesn't need to be shaken like Elmer's painters, but the color is even thinner but with a cooler tendency. The tips I have are broad and medium bullet tips and I use them when I need thicker highlights with more control than what the Elmer's can offer. This marker tends to pick up some of the pigment of the color underneath so it's advised to scribble a little on a spare sheet of paper to clean it off.
Dip pens and waterproof white ink: I use these when I want my highlights to have weight on my highlights or I want extremely thin highlights. The ink I use is my own recipe of a mixture of two different inks Hill and Pinksy sent to me. After the Gelly Roll gel pen, this is the whitest ink. However, if the line is too thin or water based markers are used it also picks some of the color underneath. This doesn't happen with dry media, though. Works better for ink, markers or color pencils, possibly soft pastels. It can be applied with brushes as well.
Acrylic paint: I'm using cheap hobby titanium white paint lightly diluted it to give it better flow and a small sable brush. It gives the most whiteness but control is more difficult. I admit I use it mostly for background effects than actual highlighting.
There's many more media that can be used that I have not tested. Conté crayon, soft pastels and pastel pencils, correction fluid, Gouache paints, etc. However I think a gel pen and a nice white color pencil are truthfully the two essentials you would need for white highlights, depending on the texture or amount of brightness you want to produce.

I drew a quick picture and colored it to show some highlights to metallic or polished textures. The marker rendering is not really important here, I just tossed something quick. For a break down of what was used where:
Uniball Signo: Face plate and the front of the helmet.
Sakura Gelly Roll: Middle segment of the neck.
Prismacolor white pencil: Bottom segment of the neck.
Acrylic paint: Bottom segment of the neck as well, on the right.
Galaxy paint marker: The Jaw.
Elmer's Painters: The top segment of the helmet.
Dip pen and white ink: The optic/eye.
Wax Crayon/China marker: The second segment. There's the other way to leave 'highlights' next to it, that is leaving the natural color of your paper and avoid coloring where you think the highlights will go.
I don't know if this will be helpful for anyone else, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to have it here with actual photos to show how the tools behave. As always, this is just my personal experience with the tools and how I use them. There is a lot of tools in the market.
Before I go ahead I'm gonna spam you all with some of the birthday swag. Not pictured a few TF figures that I'll show off proper later, more jelly bellies and awesome phone holsters and botcon loots. Thanks to all the wonderful people that spoiled me for my birthday! And those are totally PJ cookies.
Truthfully I had never been very serious about using very good tools and supplies until our comics club in high school introduced me to technical pens, but ultimately I always ended up reverting back to felt pens and markers since I mostly colored with pencils.
![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-userinfo.gif)
Although I list most of the supplies I use for my traditional drawings per piece, I'm often asked 'is this better than this?' or 'should I invest on this brand or kind instead of that other?'. So, again I'm just going to share what it is my personal experience in the use of different brands and how they have worked for me for different mediums as well as my preferences.
I have a little chart here of the pens I have for inking purposes. I'll give a better description of each and their pros and cons below the photo. The image is large so you can notice the way the ink behaves and the thickness of the sizes I posses. I have worked with 4 brands so far. Prismacolor, Faber-Castell, Sakura Pigma Micron and now Copic.
Here is a comparative of the sizes I have available and how they compare with similar sizes between brands.
This is an experiment using alcohol markers to test whether the ink smudges or not. The black U marks where I used a very very light marker on the writing done with the inking pens of each brand. The black circles shows you where an N0 marker smudged the ink of a pen. I used the thicker size of each brand that I had.
Now by brand:
- Prismacolor's inking pens go as Premier illustration markers they are the cheapest inking pens out of the lot I have. They come in 8 colors (black, blue, brown, green, orange, purple, red and sepia) with black, blue, red and green available in sizes 08, 05, 03, 01, 005, plus chisel and brush tip. While brown, sepia, purple and orange are available in 05, 005, brush and chisel tip. I have the blue and brown pens in brush tip, 05 for green and 08 for black. These were some swag from comic-con that was sent to me.
Prismacolor's illustration markers have the lightest ink out of the pens I have even the colored ink is not as deep and vibrant as other brands. In this sketch paper (Strathmore 400 series sketch pad) you can notice the black pen feathers quite a bit more than the other brands which is perhaps a result of the bigger size . Dick Blick's website prices the regular sizes at $1.72 USD at the time of writing, and $1.43 for the brush and chisel tips.
Pros: Very afforable, work well with dry media and alcohol markers and their brush tip emulates the feel of inking with a brush quite nicely.
Cons: the ink is too light compared to other brands, specially noticeable on their black ink and it also feathers a more than I'd like it to.
Faber-Castell Pitt artist pens were my first inking pens that mouse sent to me. These are pens that have a very thick and very black ink, specially noticeable on the brush tip. They come in 9 sizes: extra fine, super fine, fine, medium, brush, big brush, and three new nibs extra soft brush, round-point needle, and wedge. The first 5 sizes are available in black in sets and sold individually, but the newest three are only available in an 8 piece set. The sanguine and sepia colors are available in the first four sizes in sets and open stock.
The brush tip comes in 55 colors additional to the inking sets. At the time of this writing Blick's website offers each marker at $1.57 USD each.
PITT pens are the only pens that come in sanguine, a nice rusty orange shade to ink with that's brighter than sepia but more muted and darker than Prismacolor's orange.
Pros: Nice rich and dark black ink, quite affordable and better performance than the technical tip sizes of the Prismacolor. These are a dream to use for dry media like color pencils and pastels, and black and white works. Sanguine color is wonderful to work with. Minimal feathering.
Cons: The standard brush tip is horrid as it frays very easily and is not very flexible at all. The black ink is so thick that will smudge very easily with certain pale shades of alcohol markers. Most artists prefer to color over their pencils and do the ink work until after they have colored with the markers to avoid smudging when the piece cannot be scanned and printed over. (Like artist's convention sketches or small size pictures).
Sakura Pigma Micron pens. These are more pricey than Faber Castell and Prismacolor, but as far as disposable technical pens they are some of the best there is. They come in 16 different colors and 8 sizes: 08, 05, 03, 02, 01, 005, chisel and flexible brush. Different colors are available in different sizes, their black ink is just a little lighter than the Pitt pens, but much richer than the Prismacolor illustration markers. Blick's webside offers these pens at $2.05 each.
Pros: Great variety of colors and sizes, inks are darker than Prismacolor and not much lighter than Faber-Castell. Decently priced for all the available sizes. Specially good to use with markers, dry and other wet media and in small drawing areas. Feathering is virtually non existent.
Cons: The color to size availability ratio is not as good as it could be. Some colors are available only in one size. Albeit to a lesser degree, some markers will cause smudging from the pens. Again, some artists solve this by inking after coloring.
Copic Multiliners. I only got these recently thanks to
![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-userinfo.gif)
Copic is the only brand I know of that has the 1.0 and 0.03 sizes, which is one size thicker and thinner than other brands; and the only brand that makes gray and wine inking pens. The black ink of the multiliners is quite on pair with the PITT pens in darkness and thickness. Blick's site only sells the black sets, but iCopic offers the individual markers in all available colors at $2.21 each.
Pros: Rich, saturated inks as dark as PITT pens, a size thicker than other brands for larger pieces, and a size thinner for tiny pieces. Absolutely no feathering even with the thickest size for rather crisp lines, does not smudge at all when used with markers even the brush strokes. Cool gray and wine colors.
Cons: They are pricier than most other brands but still within the affordable range. The brush tips are not very flexible. Limited range of colors compared to other brands.
Copic Multiliners SP. I don't have the black version of these, but I do have the country colors set which is the colors the disposable multiliners come in sans olive. The Multiliner SP line is the most expensive each pen retailing at $6.71 on Blick's website. What makes these markers expensive is that they are refillable and have an aluminum body that makes the pens as light weight as their plastic disposable counterparts. Nibs are replaceable and ink cartridges are cheaper than individual disposable multiliners and sakura micron pens. Like copic markers they are meant to last you a life time just replacing nibs and refilling ink.
Multiliners SP come in 13 colors. The color SP multiliners come in two sizes, brush and 0.3 while the black multiliners come in 10 sizes. 0.03, 0.05, 0.1, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.5, 0.7 and brush. The brush tip of the SP is much thinner and flexible which allows for a pretty good control of the stroke's thickness and doesn't fray like the PITT pens.
Pros: Rich and saturated inks, no feathering and smudging when working with markers. Thinnest size available and a range of mid-point sizes when 0.3 is too thick and 0.2 just too thin. Aluminum bodies that are durable and quite fresh to the touch. Replaceable nibs and ink cartridges. For what they do they are a much nicer alternative to professional technical pens.
Cons: Expensive initial investment. The SP color pens only come in two sizes. Although the country colors have thinner or thicker sizes available as disposable multiliners, the other colors do not.
This is a comparative of the brush tips of 3 brands. First two are Copic multiliners medium and small brush, next is Prismacolor, next to that is the regular brush tip for PITT pens. You can notice that despite very gentle use (I don't use it to ink but to fill large solid black areas) the tip is already showing some fraying.
Personally I admit to loving my copic multiliners due to multiple sizes which are perfect to work on small areas or details when working with markers. So I'm only using the multiliners for marker or mixed media works. Mainly for my more polished works.
The PITT pens I'm keeping for large ink works that I intend to keep black and white or for colored pencils. Same with the Prismacolors.
I use the Sakura Micron pens for marker pieces still usually those that won't require lighter colors that could smudge and sketchier pieces.
There are of course more inking tools such as professional technical pens, dip pens and paint brushes all of which work with whatever kind of ink you wish to play around with.
And now for a variety of mediums to use to produce highlights on a marker (or pencil) piece. These are the things I use, each one produces different effects and results.
I have white opaque paint markers, gel pens, white wax marker, a white prismacolor pencil, crafts acrylic paint, dip pens and white ink. There is also copic opaque white for similar purposes but I don't have that one. Some people use liquid or pen white corrector.
I laid down a layer of black Copic marker on the sketch pad and then proceeded to write with each tool so you can see the different texture, effect and opacity of the different white inks. I use each one to achieve different effects and intensities:
Wax Crayon: I believe it goes as china marker too, it's just a regular peel off crayon like those used by teachers to grade your exams. It can be sharpened to a relatively thin tip for better control and it's color saturation is higher than what a color pencil can offer. However, because it's so waxy it'll pick up a lot more of the paper's texture and is not as good to produce smoother gradients. It works nicely on markers, inks and color pencils.
Prismacolor white pencil: I use a scholar version, but the Verithin and premier varieties produce a similar effect with varying degrees of whiteness and a great control. This offers the most control to provide subtle highlights and gradients and I usually use it when I want a subtle highlight without the unforgiving in-your-face whiteness of ink, paint or gel pens. Works with dry and wet media.
Sakura Gelly Roll opaque white gel pen: Out of all the white gel pens I've tried, Sakura's has the whitest, brightest ink. It lays down a nice white coat and usually doesn't pick up pigment from the colors beneath unless you are using water based markers. The only downside of this pen is how thick the point can be when you want a thinner line. Works well with wet and dry media.
Uniball Signo opaque white pen: Also known as Uniball Angelic because this line produces mostly pastel shades. It's got the thinnest tip you can find in the white gel pen market which makes it my favorite when I want thinner highlights than what I can do with the Sakura pen. There is a 'broad' version of this pen that has thicker lines than even the Gelly Roll and is as white. The Signo might pick up some pigment from the color below even with alcohol markers, which can be rather useful when you want a crisp highlight that's not really white. This usually happens only with darker or more saturated colors however.
Elmer's Painters paint marker: The version I have at hand has a broad calligraphy/chisel tip which is pretty versatile when you've practiced enough to know where to use each angle of the tip. Paint markers are permanent on porous surfaces like paper but tend to be washable on non-porous surfaces. Paint markers can be very white but also tend to fade a little after the initial application so the color. It's still very bright, though and easier to apply than paint itself. I tend to use this marker only when I need big white and crisp highlights. It tends to be a little bit yellowed when dry. Works well with color pencils and markers, but might want to keep away from pastels.
American Crafts Galaxy marker: It's another kind of paint marker. It doesn't need to be shaken like Elmer's painters, but the color is even thinner but with a cooler tendency. The tips I have are broad and medium bullet tips and I use them when I need thicker highlights with more control than what the Elmer's can offer. This marker tends to pick up some of the pigment of the color underneath so it's advised to scribble a little on a spare sheet of paper to clean it off.
Dip pens and waterproof white ink: I use these when I want my highlights to have weight on my highlights or I want extremely thin highlights. The ink I use is my own recipe of a mixture of two different inks Hill and Pinksy sent to me. After the Gelly Roll gel pen, this is the whitest ink. However, if the line is too thin or water based markers are used it also picks some of the color underneath. This doesn't happen with dry media, though. Works better for ink, markers or color pencils, possibly soft pastels. It can be applied with brushes as well.
Acrylic paint: I'm using cheap hobby titanium white paint lightly diluted it to give it better flow and a small sable brush. It gives the most whiteness but control is more difficult. I admit I use it mostly for background effects than actual highlighting.
There's many more media that can be used that I have not tested. Conté crayon, soft pastels and pastel pencils, correction fluid, Gouache paints, etc. However I think a gel pen and a nice white color pencil are truthfully the two essentials you would need for white highlights, depending on the texture or amount of brightness you want to produce.
I drew a quick picture and colored it to show some highlights to metallic or polished textures. The marker rendering is not really important here, I just tossed something quick. For a break down of what was used where:
Uniball Signo: Face plate and the front of the helmet.
Sakura Gelly Roll: Middle segment of the neck.
Prismacolor white pencil: Bottom segment of the neck.
Acrylic paint: Bottom segment of the neck as well, on the right.
Galaxy paint marker: The Jaw.
Elmer's Painters: The top segment of the helmet.
Dip pen and white ink: The optic/eye.
Wax Crayon/China marker: The second segment. There's the other way to leave 'highlights' next to it, that is leaving the natural color of your paper and avoid coloring where you think the highlights will go.
I don't know if this will be helpful for anyone else, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to have it here with actual photos to show how the tools behave. As always, this is just my personal experience with the tools and how I use them. There is a lot of tools in the market.